Bouldering and climbing wall - Rozlomity club Kosice Blog Archive Pulled Glue in anchor
The Sunday, September 27th happened to me in Zádieli unpleasant thing. After climbing the new road on the edge of the law Twelfth Stienke craig list by Janko done about a month before hand pulled my companion, Igor Lišaník cemented Glue in anchor.
It was the third or fourth in order from the top of the road. Pulled it completely effortless, easy, one-handed, as if it was only inserted into the hole. Road ahead to climb that afternoon craig list and another couple and around the corridor in front of her climbing over, I talked with Janko its mooring system and the materials used. Coincidentally, I was the same way two weeks before, and precisely for that incriminated borkáku craig list I Zlan because I nedoliezol trip due to lack expresiek. The belay devices pulled craig list out, I immediately informed the same day Jerry, but EMBY Council Staruch and others that I know that go there to climb. What's in this for me then? I stopped trusting cemented belay devices especially after I talked about things with people who understand cement and professionally addressed. Despite lower costs and faster assembly they said it was for safety inappropriate way. On any ordinary cement anchoring is strongly recommended, is two to three times lower tensile craig list conjunction with rock (with limestone) and up to 7 times lower in conjunction with steel materials, when compared with chemical anchors based epoxies. Mooring are suitable only special cement grout and only in compliance with the technological process. They are a mixture of cement chemistry and in their application as needed to moisten the hole 24 hours. Another major factor is assumed that an overwhelming degree of extraction craig list of signatures craig list under this particular belay devices, was its quality. I showed it to several people who are versed in the anchorage craig list and tagged it as totally inappropriate and dangerous. The reason? Has inappropriately and inadequately treated surface. craig list Creasing the surface plays a key role because the materials and linking them reaching the required strength. They lick grinder with belay devices in any case does not satisfy. What next? I think you need to rethink craig list the way, planting, as well as the material, including belay devices and checked the cemented and all climbers craig list to highlight what can happen. At the same time avoid triggering abseiling and thus planted with fixed points. If they are somewhere cemented zlaňaky, or standard, it would need to be remodel. Following these findings, it appears rational, unless belay devices do not stick chemical anchors, plant a classical expansion rivets with plaque, as is the case in most visited climbing areas in the world.
If anyone thinks that overreacting and do not believe the above, let it be We will consult experts. Regards the safety of us all. I recommend contact, for example, the climber Ruda Hajdučík from Banska Bystrica, which controls the company engaged in production and sale of special cements and concrete mixtures (rudolf.hajducik @ panbex.sk, www.panbex.sk)
As to the strength of the belay devices. For 10 years, their use should neither bend nor very likely broke. In our tests was not problem at all belay devices moved. Removing Glue in anchor only be possible with a lot of damage rocks. As to the cement. Never has been used for bonding Plain cement but Vurt anchors or other cements. Why Dany bohrak does not hold, we can only argue because I neosadzal it. Were likely to be some kind of low-quality craig list cement (either frozen or otherwise destroyed) which, as usual, by buying at the store. In doing so, this brand have not been problems.
Defend rivets? In the world use them because they are quickly fitted and not secure. See this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQt4AbQmJjE This is not to cause panic, just to show that nothing is black and white. Each fuse has its weaknesses. I agree with Jerry, and planted hundreds of belay devices demonstrated Michal Says
rivets are not a bad choice, but depends on the type of rocks (limestone - OK, conglomerate - not OK, Granite - OK, sandstone - certainly not OK, etc..). Another thing - the right choice for fusing the rock may still means quality fusing, because it still depends on other factors such as 1) the proper selection of adhesive, 2) a suitable temperature, 3) Adjusted hole after drilling, and finally 4) the human factor (skilled and well-paid job) says something,
if it was wurth or other anchoring cement I would have seen that the error between the seats and Drills - poorly cleaned hole, badly premixed cement .... ?? Having seen the chemistry belay devices sealed by pulling complete with horny Sulky adhesive Adherent to the rock.
The expansion rivets are already nadristalo enough and I think the general consensus, and also recommendations for every sort Safety Commission are - not much compared with the bonding belay devices: capillary water sucked into the gap between the rivet and rock, freezing in winter, eroded rocks ... and most of what rivets
The Sunday, September 27th happened to me in Zádieli unpleasant thing. After climbing the new road on the edge of the law Twelfth Stienke craig list by Janko done about a month before hand pulled my companion, Igor Lišaník cemented Glue in anchor.
It was the third or fourth in order from the top of the road. Pulled it completely effortless, easy, one-handed, as if it was only inserted into the hole. Road ahead to climb that afternoon craig list and another couple and around the corridor in front of her climbing over, I talked with Janko its mooring system and the materials used. Coincidentally, I was the same way two weeks before, and precisely for that incriminated borkáku craig list I Zlan because I nedoliezol trip due to lack expresiek. The belay devices pulled craig list out, I immediately informed the same day Jerry, but EMBY Council Staruch and others that I know that go there to climb. What's in this for me then? I stopped trusting cemented belay devices especially after I talked about things with people who understand cement and professionally addressed. Despite lower costs and faster assembly they said it was for safety inappropriate way. On any ordinary cement anchoring is strongly recommended, is two to three times lower tensile craig list conjunction with rock (with limestone) and up to 7 times lower in conjunction with steel materials, when compared with chemical anchors based epoxies. Mooring are suitable only special cement grout and only in compliance with the technological process. They are a mixture of cement chemistry and in their application as needed to moisten the hole 24 hours. Another major factor is assumed that an overwhelming degree of extraction craig list of signatures craig list under this particular belay devices, was its quality. I showed it to several people who are versed in the anchorage craig list and tagged it as totally inappropriate and dangerous. The reason? Has inappropriately and inadequately treated surface. craig list Creasing the surface plays a key role because the materials and linking them reaching the required strength. They lick grinder with belay devices in any case does not satisfy. What next? I think you need to rethink craig list the way, planting, as well as the material, including belay devices and checked the cemented and all climbers craig list to highlight what can happen. At the same time avoid triggering abseiling and thus planted with fixed points. If they are somewhere cemented zlaňaky, or standard, it would need to be remodel. Following these findings, it appears rational, unless belay devices do not stick chemical anchors, plant a classical expansion rivets with plaque, as is the case in most visited climbing areas in the world.
If anyone thinks that overreacting and do not believe the above, let it be We will consult experts. Regards the safety of us all. I recommend contact, for example, the climber Ruda Hajdučík from Banska Bystrica, which controls the company engaged in production and sale of special cements and concrete mixtures (rudolf.hajducik @ panbex.sk, www.panbex.sk)
As to the strength of the belay devices. For 10 years, their use should neither bend nor very likely broke. In our tests was not problem at all belay devices moved. Removing Glue in anchor only be possible with a lot of damage rocks. As to the cement. Never has been used for bonding Plain cement but Vurt anchors or other cements. Why Dany bohrak does not hold, we can only argue because I neosadzal it. Were likely to be some kind of low-quality craig list cement (either frozen or otherwise destroyed) which, as usual, by buying at the store. In doing so, this brand have not been problems.
Defend rivets? In the world use them because they are quickly fitted and not secure. See this http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xQt4AbQmJjE This is not to cause panic, just to show that nothing is black and white. Each fuse has its weaknesses. I agree with Jerry, and planted hundreds of belay devices demonstrated Michal Says
rivets are not a bad choice, but depends on the type of rocks (limestone - OK, conglomerate - not OK, Granite - OK, sandstone - certainly not OK, etc..). Another thing - the right choice for fusing the rock may still means quality fusing, because it still depends on other factors such as 1) the proper selection of adhesive, 2) a suitable temperature, 3) Adjusted hole after drilling, and finally 4) the human factor (skilled and well-paid job) says something,
if it was wurth or other anchoring cement I would have seen that the error between the seats and Drills - poorly cleaned hole, badly premixed cement .... ?? Having seen the chemistry belay devices sealed by pulling complete with horny Sulky adhesive Adherent to the rock.
The expansion rivets are already nadristalo enough and I think the general consensus, and also recommendations for every sort Safety Commission are - not much compared with the bonding belay devices: capillary water sucked into the gap between the rivet and rock, freezing in winter, eroded rocks ... and most of what rivets
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